“Koya Hijiri” (The Holy Man of Mount Koya), one of the best-known novels by Kyoka Izumi (1873-1939), is written in the first person singular.

Set in the Meiji Era (1868-1912), the story takes the form of the protagonist listening to the reminiscences of a middle-aged Buddhist priest who, in his younger years, had sought a night’s lodging at an inn after undergoing a harrowing experience in the mountains.

The two become acquainted during a long-haul train journey from Tokyo to the city of Tsuruga in Fukui Prefecture. Having departed Tokyo at 9:30 p.m., the train is scheduled to arrive at its destination in the evening of the following day.

The Meiji government was the first to plan the simultaneous construction of a railway in Tsuruga as well as between Tokyo and Yokohama.

Given the current population of Tsuruga, this plan could be seen as somewhat odd. However, the government’s idea was to transport rice from the Hokuriku region to Kyoto, Osaka and Kobe.

The “Oa Kokusai Renraku Ressha” (literally, Europe-Asia international connecting train) that was in operation until World War II enabled passengers to travel from Tokyo to Europe on just one ticket, via a ferry service from the Port of Tsuruga and the Trans-Siberian Railroad.

Citizens of Tsuruga must be hoping for their city’s revival as a “railway town” now. The Hokuriku Shinkansen on March 16 was extended from the Tokyo-Kanazawa service route to Tsuruga.

The line’s co-operators, East Japan Railway Co. and West Japan Railway Co., say the biggest selling point is that passengers can now travel between Tokyo and Tsuruga in just 3 hours and 8 minutes, without transfers.

When I visited Tsuruga last month, the shopping arcade in front of the train station was festooned with banners welcoming the new Shinkansen service.

But shuttered storefronts were noticeable. One shop owner lamented, “I’d be delighted to get more customers, but the city doesn’t have too many tourist attractions, don’t you agree?”

No, I don’t agree. In fact, had I been able to, I would definitely have stayed another night in this historical city where the snow falls solemnly on shrines and the signs outside shops are delightfully quaint.

One of the pleasures of travel is to discover neighborhood charms that the locals tend to take for granted and forget.

Author Izumi was said to love to travel. In one of his short stories, he depicted this scene he saw from the window of a travelling train: “The flowers in the fields were violets and dandelions, each and every one blooming yellow and purple, and the train passing in their midst.”

I have half a mind to visit once more to delight in the spring scenery.

--The Asahi Shimbun, March 16

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Vox Populi, Vox Dei is a popular daily column that takes up a wide range of topics, including culture, arts and social trends and developments. Written by veteran Asahi Shimbun writers, the column provides useful perspectives on and insights into contemporary Japan and its culture.